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I’m the type of person who brings a massive suitcase containing multiple outfits and a plethora of travel gear for a long weekend trip — just in case. So the prospect of traveling around Europe with only a small(ish) backpack filled me with dread. I backpacked around Asia in my 20s and that was hard enough, but here I was, a full-fledged adult planning to attempt the same feat. What about my 10-step skin care routine? I had to find just the right bag …

Due to the fact my trip was primarily focused on hiking around Ireland and the Azores, with brief beach and city stops in Barcelona, London and Lisbon, I figured I’d look pretty silly hiking with a suitcase in tow. Plus, I’ve been to Lisbon before and dragging a wheeled bag through those cobblestone streets is no joke. But which backpack would be big enough and comfortable enough for the job? I was assured by my colleague, travel editor Kyle Olsen, that the Cotopaxi Allpa 35L backpack would be perfect, but to say I was skeptical is an understatement.

Cotopaxi Allpa 35L Travel Pack
Faced with a three-week trip to different terrains and climates, I knew I was going to need a special bag to serve my needs. The Cotopaxi Allpa is comfortable, water-resistant, has myriad compartments and tuck-away straps, and is available in a variety of colors. Plus, it comes with a lifetime warranty.

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Once I had a closer look at the Cotopaxi Allpa and read some reviews online, I started to think that backpacking may actually be possible, even for an overpacker like me. This bag does a lot with a little space, featuring multiple compartments for various needs and a few other additional touches that solve a multitude of problems.

I traveled around Europe for 3 weeks with just a backpack. Here’s how I did it
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Unlike most regular backpacks that you load from the top, the main compartment has a suitcase-style zipper that opens like a clamshell. There is a discreet padded laptop sleeve at the back, a stretchy side pocket for your water bottle and an easy-to-access pocket at the top for things you may need quick access to, like your passport, phone, snacks, chargers, SPF or anything else. Other thoughtful features include security zippers, a section for dirty laundry, three grab handles and webbing loops, should you want to clip extra gear or sneakers to your bag.

I also love that I can use this bag as a carry-on that attaches to a larger suitcase for longer trips, thanks to the luggage pass-through strap and the fact you can tuck the shoulder straps and hip belt inside the padding. In fact, you can pack so much in this TSA-compliant bag that I’m seriously considering ditching my usual carry-on bag for the Cotopaxi. The grab handles also make it easy to masquerade as a duffel.

It’s worth noting there is a bigger 42L version, but there was no guarantee this would be suitable for the many different airlines I was using as an acceptable carry-on size, and checking a bag was out of the question. I was a little worried about being charged an extra baggage fee or forced to check the Cotopaxi during my flights, but these concerns were unfounded. Not even budget airline staff gave my backpack a second glance. It fits very easily into the overhead compartment and even under your seat, if you don’t mind it taking up all the legroom.

Finally, I thought traveling around Europe with a backpack would be uncomfortable on my shoulders but Cotopaxi’s design ensures even weight distribution and a comfortable feel due to its cushioned straps. Having a backpack was useful for hiking around Ireland and the Azores, and walking around the cobbled hills of Lisbon, where I saw many tourists struggle with their wheeled suitcases, just as I had on a previous trip.

Packing for different climates is always going to be difficult. With temperatures on my trip ranging from 30 degrees Fahrenheit in Ireland and more than 90 degrees Fahrenheit in Spain, not to mention the constant threat of rain and humidity in the Azores in Portugal, trying to pare down my packing list was a real challenge. On top of that, I had a few important events to attend in London so I needed a proper dress and pair of heels. Still, I somehow managed to fit all the below items in my 35-liter Cotopaxi Allpa.